La Bonne Soupe

The haute-cuisine Midtown of Lutèce and La Côte Basque is just a ghost now. I can’t quite believe I’m saying this, but its spirit of French cooking may be strongest at La Bonne Soupe on West 55th Street. For most of its 48-year run, the compact zinc bar and exposed ceiling beams conjured Paris more faithfully than the menu, where “Les Burgers” were a mainstay. Recently, though, the kitchen was handed to Nicolas Frezal, who helped revive a Right Bank bistro called Astier after putting in time at the Ritz. He gave the menu a haircut, and brought on new dishes like a housemade terrine with bread from Poilâne, hard-cooked eggs whose yolks are whipped with puréed ...